April in Paris

I am getting alarmingly close to the end of my ex-pat adventure. Which for the last few weeks has been making me panic about fitting in everything that I can while I'm here, within my financial means. The other part of me is worrying about what I will do when I get back. Luckily I have some very supportive and flexible roommates so that has helped cut down on the stress, but I have been searching for jobs and doing everything I can to simplify getting certified to teach from over here.

Teaching has become pretty...intermittent. Remember how I was waiting to actually work a "full" twelve-hour week? Yeah, that never happened. They finally found another replacement for the teacher on maternity leave (two months later!), and he's really nice but says, "For the time being, I don't need you which I'm not really proud of coz a native speaker is a real asset." So I will be working maybe nine hours a week for my two weeks left, and I have two weeks of vacation in the middle, which is just kind of unreal when you think about the fact that I'm still getting paid the same amount despite all of this. But hey, I'm not complaining. Just dumbfounded.

I have been enjoying the teaching that I actually get to do. Recently I have been working on gun control by using articles about Gabrielle Giffords being shot and Bowling for Columbine. I have also been using the language lab and having my students listen to NPR programs and then presenting to the class what they learned, and they seem to be really into it. I'm glad that I have been able to spend my year abroad continuing to prepare myself for a career in teaching.

In other news, Dave will be here a week from today, and is staying for two weeks! I'm so excited to have the chance to pick him up from the airport and to show him Paris after years of going to see him in Los Angeles. He's also never been to Europe, so it should be an incredible experience for both of us. The first week we are spending in Paris, and I'm cramming as much Parisian goodness as I possibly can into it. The following Saturday we are taking a train to Giverny to see Monet's gardens. When I was researching it someone said that renting bikes for the four miles to the gardens from the train station was the way to go. Should be a relaxing Saturday outside of the city.

The next day we will leave for Nice, where I studied abroad last summer. I have never seen water the same color blue, and I am so excited to show him. We're taking day trips to Cannes, Monaco, Cape Ferrat, and maybe Antibes. We will also visit my host family from when I stayed there. Then, when we get back to Paris we'll finish anything we missed, and spend the last Saturday relaxing at Versailles.

We both agreed to have a tentative plan but that the main purpose is to relax and enjoy ourselves. I don't want to be a slave to the schedule.

For the next three weeks the family I au pair for will be out of town (that timing couldn't be more perfect!), so I am spending this week teaching and getting ready for Dave to arrive!

Paris Encore

Just a quick note to say that I made it back into Paris after a whirlwind two weeks in Greece, Germany, and Italy. Pictures and blogs to come. It was an amazing trip, but it feels so good to be back "home." The first thing I did after getting off the RER was stop at the open air market on my street for some fruit. I love the markets here. The sellers are so knowledgeable about their produce, you can tell them exactly when and how you plan to use or eat it and they will give you a perfect specimen. I will miss that. Time to unpack!

I see London, I see France...

So, the family I work for went for a “holiday” to London in December, and I jumped at the chance to go along to babysit. We arrived Friday night by train. It was freezing cold! Standing in line for a funny looking British taxi was painful, it was so cold. I stayed with Lawrence in the room and they went for a drink, and then I brought him down the pub they were at so we could

all have dinner. It was weird because I came in holding his hand, and we found them. When the bartender came over to get our orders, he kept asking me questions for Lawrence, and I realized that he thought Lawrence was MY son, and they were his grandparents! It just kind of struck me. I have classmates from high school who have and are having kids, but that it could possibly happen to me in any realm of reality never really reached my consciousness until that moment. I am an adult human who could create life and presumably be responsible for it. Scary! Haha. After a great meal of “proper” fish and chips and an English Ale, I was off for the night.

I stayed with a couple, Helen and Chris, in West Ealing, and “commuted” to the hotel each day by tube (The London Underground). It really does look like a tube. Since I was in London for eight days last summer I had done most of the big stuff already, and just wanted to hang out with some locals and go to a pub, etc. Helen and Chris are one of the cutest couples ever. He is Australian, and she is British (but her family is from Spain originally). They were so

accommodating and sweet! Not to mention hilarious. We all had a lot in common and got along really well. Chris and I talked about Australia a lot, and I have to say he made me bump it up a few slots on my “Places to Visit” list. It sounds utterly amazing. On my last night they took me to a comedy show. Of course, I got picked on a lot for being American (all in good fun, of course) including getting serenaded Wham’s “Careless Whisper” by a chubby Brit wearing a spandex cat costume and one nipple tassel. But that’s another story. ;) I had a fabulous weekend filled with good conversations, lots of laughs, great food, a lot of tea, and wonderful people.

Unfortunately, it was also a weekend of extreme snow fall for London. When it was time for me to take my train back to Paris, all of the travel was extremely backed up. In fact, the headline of a newspaper that I picked up on the way TO THE TRAIN STATION read “You can’t even escape by train!” Lovely. And it was a good indicator of the rest of my day.

Since travel was so backed up, your ticket time didn’t matter, as long as you had one, you got in an extremely long line (or queue as the British say :-P). Then they just loaded trains on a first come first serve basis as fast as they could, which was not fast at all. After marching through snow to the very end of the line several blocks away, my socks were soaked. Then, I waited in the cold with wet feet for about three hours before even getting inside St. Pancras. The Salvation Army was there handing out coffee, tea, and some hot food like curry and even Domino’s brought pizza. News stations kept filming us and interviewing the people waiting. I waited for four more hours inside the train station before getting a ticket, and another hour and a half inside the lounge. Whew. It was an exhausting day.

When I finally made it back to Paris at midnight, I was ecstatic. I came into Gare du Nord, the same station as last summer when I arrived in Paris for the first time and completely alone because of a flight mix up. Back then I remember feeling so scared, alone, and confused. I had no idea where I was, how to get where I was going, and my French was pretty abysmal. This time, I knew exactly where I was, understood all of the announcements, and even asked the guy next to me if he’d prefer the window seat. It felt so…comfortable. Coming back to Paris was like coming home. I was so excited to be back I didn’t even take the bus the rest of the way with my suitcase, but just walked, soaking up the sights and smells of Paris again. J

So this is Christmas

Paris cannot handle snow. It snowed about ten centimeters, or a little less than four inches, today and traffic is at a standstill. Apparently it is the most snow Paris has had since 1987. Horns honk impatiently, the distinct “EEE OOO” sound of the sirens of emergency vehicles wails as they try to maneuver through the blocked streets, and the traffic lights cycle through red and green with no movement of traffic because this much snow is incomprehensible. They even shut down the Eiffel tower. Man, these parisiens would HATE Grand Rapids.

I spent the day inside, playing “snowball fight” with Lawrence as fat snowflakes drifted down outside, and we listened to Christmas music on my laptop. I put his coat and gloves on him and took him out on the balcony to experience the snow. He mostly just made snow balls and then sucked on them like they were some kind of candy, but to each his own. Recently Maja told me that her mom said something about how it just isn’t Christmas without children. I have always been rather indifferent to the idea of having children, but that point stuck with me. I can’t imagine the holidays having that “magic” without children to enjoy it and to bring it to life for everyone else. I am sitting in the tiny French café on the corner by my house. I like it because it is so authentically French. It hasn’t been updated since the 70’s it seems like, and it’s always the same barman working, and there is always a crowd of regulars (crusty old French people who speak no English and have been coming here forever). I think the barman thinks I’m nuts for coming in despite old French men hitting on me, but there is something truly charming and extremely French about this place. That being said, the older men are harmless and it gives me a chance to speak French. It is definitely not a place for tourists. Plus, they have a room that consists entirely of windows so I can sit and watch people pass by on the street while I drink my chocolat chaud.

With the winter weather and December sneaking up on me, I’ve been thinking about Christmas a lot recently. It is going to be my first Christmas away from my family. Ever. I keep going around in my head about it. I got invited to join my host family from last summer in Nice, and to see my Sicilian family who I have never met, but I plan to while I’m here. Neither of those worked out, too expensive. I got offered babysitting on Christmas day, and with that in mind, I have decided to stay in Paris. I want to at least spend it with some children. Sandra and Andre are going to London for a weekend during my break, and today they told me that they would pay for me to come if I can babysit when they go out. It would be a fun Christmasy trip. I realized that besides not seeing my family and Dave, it shouldn’t be that bad to be here for Christmas. I mean I’m in Paris for God’s sake. There are lights strung up over the roads, festive markets hawk Christmas items and delicious hot food, snow is falling, and I caught the fresh scent of pine from the fresh pine trees at the stores (45 euro for a tree! That’s like 60 dollars! I guess I’ve never bought a tree but it seems a bit steep!). The best part of Christmas is and always has been the anticipation; hearing Christmas songs, making cookies, playing in the snow. Christmas day I always feel a little deflated, like the fun is over. I had a snowball fight with the other kids I babysit for this week. I had so much fun chasing the boys and dodging the (somewhat pathetic…I am from Michigan after all) cold fluffy balls of snow while Parisiens reluctantly smiled as they passed. It definitely got me in the Christmas spirit. I am just going to try and have as many Christmasy moments as I can. I had my students sing "Jingle Bells" yesterday, and they loved it. They cracked up when I added the "HA HA HA" after "laughing all the way." I asked a student how Christmas is different here. He said, “I sink eet ees ze same as America, just weeth…euh…less decorating.” I laughed. I’m sure he’s seen Christmas Vacation and thinks that all Americans are like that.

So, I’m going to have a French Christmas. I hope to Skype with my family though. I miss them. J

Here is my Christmas playlist if you're looking for something Christmasy too. ;)

Discover the playlist Christmas with John Williams

Paris, Pirates, and Plans

I apologize for my hiatus. Along with not having internet Windows Vista became corrupted on my laptop and it was running extremely slowly if at all. As of today, thanks to my friend Flo, I now have Windows 7 and what seems to be a happy computer again. Yay!

So, the family I babysit for is back. They did some things in my room, like installed a towel rack and another shelf, mounted a mirror, and the fridge finally arrived. The microwave will be here tomorrow, and I should have internet sooner than later (I don’t dare say soon). Apparently one company has to come and confirm that there is no existing line in the room, and THEN the company we’re actually getting internet from will hook it up within a week after that. I can’t wait to be able to call home whenever I want and to look up things to do and see in Paris from the comfort of my little room, which I do like very much. It’s cute and works perfectly for my needs.

The three year old with jet lag can be a bit cranky, it turns out. The first time he saw me his face crumpled like someone told him he would never get dessert again. However by the time his mom came home and tried to give him a kiss he said, “No, I’m playing with Kelly right now.” He is really freaking cute. I always forget how kids that age can turn on and off the waterworks so quickly. He fell on his scooter the other day after we were playing “animal doctor” with his stuffed animals and immediately there were big fat tears rolling down his rosy cheeks. After a quick assessment I determined he was fine, just scared. I said, “Should we take you to the doctor?” He started crying harder and screamed “I don’t want to go to the doctor!” I quickly explained, “No, I mean the animal doctor. Remember?” He said, “Oh yeah.” and INSTANTLY stopped crying, like turning off a switch. It was an impressive theatrical performance. I wonder if I was like that at that age. (Dad, you’re probably reading this, was I?) Yesterday I spent an hour playing “pirates” with him. I was running around the living room with a piece of wood for a gun, ducking and “shooting” at each other and having sword fights. Every time I would dramatically groan and flop to the ground after being shot, Lawrence would come up and say, “Want me to help you up?” (in a really cute French accent). Adorable. Kids’ imaginations are so amazing. I’m glad I’m still a kid at heart; I have a lot of fun playing with him.

I haven’t had to do much other than babysit this week because I keep getting called off of work. Tuesday there was another transportation strike, so I couldn’t get there. I was supposed to go today but the students are on strike. They are marching in the streets, blockading schools, and I saw on the news tonight that it even got violent in Lyon. The footage I’ve seen bears a resemblance to Vietnam War era protests with police and young adults squaring off. Luckily I have been able to avoid most of the drama. I did see some of the young people (or “jeunesse”) marching through the RER platforms today banging on drums and singing. I got a text from one of the teachers at my school saying I don’t even have to go tomorrow. Then, we have a vacation for a week and a half. Good grief. Between the terrorism threats and the strikes I picked one hell of a time to live in France.

So, in my newly found spare time I have been exploring the city with Maja. We went up to Montmartre and wandered around the cemetery, found the café from Amelie, and checked out Moulin Rouge. Yesterday we went to Pere Lachaise where a lot of famous people are laid to rest including Oscar Wilde, Jim Morrison, Edith Piaf, and Gertrude Stein. It was a fun Halloweenish outing. We are also planning on going down to the catacombs around Halloween. I didn’t get to go the last time I was here and I’m really stoked. Should be nice and creepy. We are also planning a Halloween party at Maja’s. I still need to come up with a costume for that, ideas are welcome. We have also been cooking together over at her place, since she has a full kitchen. It saves us a lot of money to pool our resources, and it’s nice to sit down and eat a hot meal with someone.

This weekend I have plans with my French friend Maria. My friend Anne from Grand Valley, who is studying abroad in Angers, is visiting me for Halloween, and then some teachers from my school are taking me on a daytrip to see some French castles. I’m looking forward to all of it. J

1000 Years of Annoying the French

I read an article today about Stephan Clarke's new book, 1000 Years of Annoying the French. He said that, "being an expat in Paris can sometimes feel like 'being a lobster in a Breton chef's kitchen.'" Wow, can I ever relate to that. Sometimes it can be very discouraging when people don't even try to understand you in French or are rude. I hate when they switch to English too. However, the majority of the time they are EXTREMELY nice, contrary to Parisian stereotypes.

One interview question in particular stood out to me:

How would you describe the typical French attitude to British people who move to France?

It all depends on whether the British person says "bonjour" or not. If they don't, the French think they're cold, aloof, snobbish and "typiquement anglais". But if they just say the magic word at the start of each conversation, the French love them...It's the only way to be accepted by the French, who prize politeness above all else. It's also wise to refrain from using sentences like "back in the UK, we do it this way" and "but I'm a customer, you HAVE to serve me."

This absolutely rings true for Americans in Paris too. So many Americans come here thinking that the French are cold, snobby, rude, etc., without the least bit of concern for what is rude in the culture that they are visiting. If I had a nickel for every time I heard an American say something along the lines of, "You're in America. Speak English!" I'd have a flight home for Christmas, no problem.

In other news, I had a really fun weekend staying with and catching up with an old friend from high school, Flo. We went to Nuit Blanche, an all night festival where most of the sights are open for free. We got to go to Notre Dame for free. The arched ceilings and the peacful quiet inside always move me.

Speaking of moving, I moved into my apartment last night!! That's right, I stayed in four homes in two weeks, and now finally I'm in my very own little chambre de bonne. It's small (10m squared). They used to be used for maids of wealthy families below to live in. I spent my first evening unpacking EVERYTHING I have and organizing it. Sandra provided everything I need (sheets, towels, utensils, plates, cups, etc.) I am the only one who really lives on the floor, everything else is just an office. I opened my window and peeked out, and was thrilled to discover that I have a stellar view of the Eiffel Tower lit up at night. I kept poking my head out on the hour, when it sparkles for ten minutes. This was worth the wait.

Making Fun of the French

By LEAH HYSLOP

October 5, 2010

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Je suis à Paris!

Whew! After an 11 hour plane ride, I finally made it! Leaving Dave was brutal, but I've had some good signs recently and it makes me feel very positive. :) We didn't get to the panicking point this time, we just really enjoyed our time together instead of trying to cram in too much before I left.

I really dug my airline, Air Tahiti Nui. We were served two meals, dinner and breakfast which they woke us up for at 6 AM Paris time! I got served before everyone else because I'm vegetarian. It must be because we're so weak from the lack of protein ;)

To pass the time I watched Robot Chicken's Star Wars episodes, Kung Fu Panda (that movie always makes me want to eat the noodles), and (don't judge me...I couldn't sleep) Sex and the City 2.

I was glad that I had a window seat for once when we were approaching the Paris skyline and I saw the Eiffel Tower over the horizon. I couldn't stop smiling. This thing that I've been planning for over a year is FINALLY happening.

Maja found me immediately as I walked out with my bags, and we recognized each other right away. I found out her name is pronounced like "Maya." That's going to take some adjusting because I've been pronouncing it wrong this whole time...lol. We took a cab to the apartment that she's staying at because it was WAY easier than the metro with seven months worth of baggage. Get this: the lady that she is apartment sitting for has free unlimited calling to the U.S.!!!!! I called Dave and my parents right away. It is so different from when I flew into London alone, didn't know a soul and stayed in a tiny hotel room with outrageous rates to call home. I feel so much more at ease with everyone just a phone call away, and a non rushed phone call at that. The apartment is wonderful. The shower looks like a time machine, and there are like 8 different water dispensers that spray you from 8 different directions, and then there are combinations of these. I will take a picture and post it when I can. Unreal.

After touching base with home, I slept (extremely hard) for a few hours, and then Maja and I went and got food and ate it by the Eiffel Tower, grabbed some groceries, and now we are sitting in the most stereotypical Parisian cafe with the most stereotypical Parisian music playing to use the internet because the wifi (pronounced "wee-fee" over here) isn't working.

The jet lag is setting in. Tune in next time for a more exciting update!

The French strike back

My dad sent me this article this morning.

Apparently the train workers have been striking because "French protesters are angry about the government's plan to do away with the near-sacred promise of retirement at 60, forcing people to work until 62 because they are living longer."

My feelings about the issue itself aside, the strikes are leaving commuters in Paris out of luck. People in Paris don't all drive to work like we do here in the States. Most of them rely on the Metro system, which is a beautiful thing when it's functional. The article predicts that the strikes will continue in the fall, and that leaves me wondering what this all means for me. How do employers deal with it? Are there "strike days" like our "snow days" where I can gratefully go back to bed when I hear about it, or will I be penalized for not getting to work if the Metro and RER shut down?

According to the article, Parisians have been getting resourceful:

Some Paris commuters had to resort to the city's rental bicycle system, Velib, and not all were happy about it. One commuter, Antonia Gilles, tried it for the first time: "It was a success but it was dangerous."

My commute to Sainte-Geneviève-des-Bois where I will teach consists of the Metro, RER, a bus, and even a bit of walking. I really don't want to bicycle 25.3 km (about 15 miles) each way. What is a girl to do when a strike strikes?

Commuters walloped by strikes in France, London
By JEAN-MARIE GODARD
Associated Press
August, 2010
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